For some reason, Captain’s Anchorage restaurant seems especially cozy on a stormy evening, which is why winter has always been its busy season.

    There’s something about the restaurant, which was built in 1946 and opened a year later as the Sportsman’s Tavern by famous actor Andy Devine, that makes it especially cozy when the night is cold. Whether it’s the hand-hewn wood beams, massive five-hinge doors, ceiling-high native stone fireplaces (note the plural), uniquely romantic “tables for two” perfect for couples to cuddle up in, or original stained glass that’s survived fire, earthquakes, even apparition attacks, Captain’s Anchorage is rustic and warm despite its seedy, chilly past.

    And when it comes to vice, these walls have seen it all. Murder? There’s the mysterious death of bookkeeper George, back in the days when the restaurant was known as the Sportsman’s Tavern and was owned by none other than famous actor Andy Devine, best known as Jingles in the “Wild Bill Hickock” television series.

    George’s ghost is said to still haunt the restaurant to this day, and while the only spirits guests usually encounter pour from a bottle—The Hook, as Captain’s Anchorage is called by locals, pours some of Big Bear’s best drinks—longtime employees talk of hearing pans rattle, feeling sudden chills in the otherwise cozy log cabin restaurant, even of seeing silverware fly through the air.

    Sex? Gambling? Both are part of the restaurant’s past as well. Upstairs 35 slot machines and always-willing call girls many years ago were reputed to be at the ready, all of which could be cleared out into a back room when the county sheriff came to town.

    So during one of February’s snowstorms, wife Sandy and I found ourselves in good spirits seeking Captain’s Anchorage warmth. We weren’t the only ones either; a steady flow of customers braved wind and weather, even on a Tuesday night. We were fortunate enough to have made reservations, always a good idea when dining the “Hook.”

    Additional warmth comes from the Anchorage’s famous soup and salad bar. Nothing sticks to the innards like always available piping hot clam chowder, while the second selection varies daily (on our visit it was vegetable beef). With a nice selection of offerings the fresh salad and soup bar can be turned into a full meal, which is just what some people do.

    The rest of us try not to eat too much there so as to save room for the main course, and at Captain’s Anchorage that can be a weighty proposition. Like a full pound in my case, since I opted for the 16 oz. cut of the restaurant’s popular prime rib ($27.95).

    Slow roasted and seasoned to perfection, mine arrived a couple inches thick and draped over much of the plate, pink in the middle and very juicy and tender, just the way I ordered it. Those who don’t want to tackle a pound of prime can opt for the half cut (12 oz., $24.95) or even the petite (8 oz., $21.95).

    Captain’s Anchorage offers nice weeknight specials—on Tuesday it’s halibut for $16.95—which is what Sandy selected. It comes blackened or sauteed in butter (her choice), and arrived very fresh, flaky and tender.

     Trying something new was a big step for tife because she usually just homes in on her favorite: the Anchor. Charbroiled filet mignon is stuffed with Dungeness crab, topped with artichoke hearts and tomato, then smothered in bearnaise sauce. You bet it’s as rich as it sounds! The lighter six ounce Anchor is $30.95, while the 10 oz. Anchor Aweigh is $35.95.

    There are other hefty cuts of meat on the menu too. Foremost is the 22 ounce Andy Devine cut of New York steak ($33.95)—that’s right, nearly a pound-and-a-half! The “standard” 12 oz. cut ($25.95) is still three-quarters-pound.

    Top sirloin (6 and 10 oz., $18.95 and $21.95 respectively) is another favorite, along with teriyaki ($23.95). If meat’s not what you’re after, Captain’s Anchorage always has fresh seafood available—on our visit it was swordfish, halibut and popular wild salmon—plus shrimp and chicken offerings. Vegetarians love the spinach tortellini ($18.95), with veggies sauted in olive oil and fresh garlic, then topped with parmesean—the table next to us had it and tantalized the entire room with the aromas.

    Arrive early before your reservation to enjoy a cocktail in the bar, dubbed the “Andy Devine Room,” where dozens of pictures of the onetime owner line the walls. Here guests relive the day’s exploits on the slopes, knock down a drink or two, bask in front of the roaring fire, and indulge in sandwiches or appetizers like fiery shrimp diablo, sure to torch the tongue.

    —by Marcus Dietz

    Captain’s Anchorage is off the boulevard at Moonridge Rd. Call (909) 866-3997.