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Early season wildflowers line the Pacific Crest Trail around the Doble section
At 2,638 miles, the Pacific Crest Trail is considered by many to be America’s premier long-distance trail, as it passes through seven of the country’s eight climatological zones.
Consider: it traverses through three states (California, Oregon, Washington) and touches as many countries (Mexico, U.S., Canada). It travels over nearly 60 mountain passes, through terrain that ranges from fiery desert to dripping wet rain forest, and goes through seven national parks and 24 federal forests, not to mention 33 designated wilderness areas—including skirting the nearby San Gorgonio Wilderness. It passes a thousand lakes and tarns and descends into 19 distinct canyons.
Yet the PCT is about much more than numbers. Some 300 ambitious hikers will attempt the full distance this year, most leaving Campo at the Mexican border in late April and not arriving in Manning Provincial Park in Canada till October. For them, the PCT is about a lifestyle, living mostly off what you can carry on your back, sleeping under the stars at night, with the only order of business the necessity to hike the 20 miles or so a day—every day, with only occasional rest days—till the goal is achieved.
May is when the PCT in Big Bear is at its busiest, as dirty and bedraggled thru hikers arrive with 200-plus miles under their belt, only 2,500 to go. The acknowledged king of thru hikers is Scott Williamson, who not once but twice has completed yo-yos of the PCT—walking all the way up and back the trail, over five thousand miles in a few months!
Many more hikers attempt sections of the trail, taking a day, week or month to hike portions of the famed trail, including the 39 miles that passes through Big Bear Valley. Yet you don’t have to be hiking all the way to Canada to have a good time on the PCT—several local sections make great family day hikes. These sections are mostly level with not many killer climbs, suitable for all ability levels. Just be careful: you might have so much fun it’s hard to turn back, in which case you’ll be hearing “eh!”
Two summers ago fire in the San Gorgonio Wilderness around Mission Creek forced the closure of a PCT stretch for a couple months, then last fall the Butler Fires closed sections of the trail to southbound hikers. Now the trail is fully-open again, save for detours around the Butler Fire area, and hiking conditions appear just fine with no snow closures or major water issues. In fact the wet winter should assure good water availability.
The PCT enters Big Bear Valley at the top of Onyx Summit immediately east of Hwy. 38, and there’s a big turnout for parking there too, though Forest Service tree removal work has limited this otherwise terrific trail access. Catch the trail up the hill about 100 yards east of where you park, then head either north or south on the path. Go south (toward Mexico) and you’ll start a gradual descent as beautiful views of the San Gorgonio Wilderness and its snowcapped namesake peak, 11,502 ft. Mt. San Gorgonio, unfold. Be sure to note the wild animal facility from a safe distance after about a mile on the trail. Head north and you’ll come to a group camp with water, a nice relaxing spot about two miles in.
Another good place for a PCT day hike can be found on Hwy. 18 at Cushenberry Grade, at the drop off to Lucerne Valley. Park on the east side and catch the trail going either direction as it crosses the highway. North is especially dramatic, with crest views of the desert and good wind and sun protection. Walk a couple miles and you’ll come to Holcomb Valley Rd., better known as the road to the county dump. There’s nothing trashy about the hiking here. Continue on the trail (or park here instead) and you’ll walk through the Doble trail camp, roughly located where the mining boom town of the same name was. Note the remnants of the Gold Mountain mine on the ridge above you. The trail ascends up the ridge, serving dramatic views of Baldwin Lake, which had a little water in it at press time for the first time in a few years, and eventually leading past Gold Mountain, one of the “Seven Summits of Big Bear.”
South on the trail from Cushenberry leads toward Shadow Ranch, and along the way serves up more great views of the Desert and also Baldwin Lake. The walking is mostly level with only a few grinds to climb, and expect to be warm on the trail if you’re going midday.
For less convenient parking but more adventurous hiking, drive out to Holcomb Valley on Van Dusen Canyon Rd. off North Shore Dr. The PCT intersects the dirt road about 2.4 miles in; find a place to park and check out the great hiking in either direction. South climbs up the ridge immediately to the east and can be quite a hump; if you walk far enough it empties out after a descent back at the dump.
North also dishes up some uphill, and after a few miles the PCT connects with Cougar Crest trail. Get someone to drop you off on Van Dusen and you can hike the PCT to Cougar Crest, ending up at the Discovery Center for pickup.
Call Big Bear Discovery Center at (909) 866-3437.
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